The RGB lighting has incredibly limited customization with a small number of preset colors and animations, which cannot be adjusted directly in the software. Instead, it can only be adjusted by remapping keys (typically on one of the secondary layers) to specific effects. The default map has specific, individual key combinations mapped to red, green, blue, etc., both making customization tedious and preventing any granular adjustments to colors. This means, if you’re using red switches, you’re stuck with the slightly pink-ish hue of the RGB bouncing off the switches’ red stems. With a more precise RGB color adjustment, you would be able to make the hue slightly cooler to compensate for this.
The software is still in a beta release, so many of these details are likely to change in the future. Naya’s developers specifically told me that battery life will be displayed in the app, and they have other updates planned to improve functionality. However, it’s frustrating that the software isn’t fully functional upon release, and—like anything in the world of software—there’s no way of knowing definitively that these updates will happen. Naya has been updating the software semi-regularly, but I highly caution against buying any product with the promise of future software improvements.
Impressive Build Quality
Despite the technical issues this keyboard faces, the build quality is really impressive. It is a beautiful piece of engineering. The main shell is made using both CNC machining and aluminum extrusion, which allows for a seamless center section that looks refined and striking. The hinges are rigid and maintain their angle easily, and the modules magnetically snap into place with a satisfying click. The RGB lighting is bright and generally color-accurate (although the red stems of the low-profile switches can tint the underside of the keycaps), and the bespoke keycaps all look and feel fantastic, being reasonably thick and having a comfortable matte texture.
This keyboard was not designed with repairability in mind. To access the center section’s printed circuit board (PCB), you need to remove a dozen screws, remove a panel, disconnect two ribbon cables, and gently slide the PCB out from the side of the housing, all of which is done within the confines of an ultra-thin shell. The ribbon cables are held in place with both standard locking mechanisms and adhesive pads, which troubles the entire process by introducing dried adhesive gunk to nearly every internal connection.
